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Geo Tracker crankshaft bolt tool
HI! I’ve got a new project! A ’97 Geo Tracker with a 1.6 ~ 16valve engine, 5 speed transmission! I love these little “trucks”! However, as usual, my little Tracker needs some much-needed TLC maintenance! So I got under the hood, and it needs just about everything one could imagine! Timing belt, water pump, seals, this that and other stuff! I’m still waiting for parts this very minute!:(
But this blog is about a tool that I made. I didn’t come up with the idea however. Fritz, the owner/operator of Tracker Ranch (http://www.trackerranch.com/) in Livingston, Tx., told me of his idea, he never made one though! You see, when removing the crankshaft bolt, one needs to keep the crankshaft from turning to break the 17mm bolt, which is REALLY TIGHT! Crazy tight!
LowRangeOffroad.com is a site/place the sells parts for trackers and the Samurai’s.
BTW~ Tracker Ranch is a place to buy used parts for your Tracker! Let’s face it, they don’t make parts for these cute little trucks anymore, so we must find used parts, and Tracker Ranch is a resource for used parts! Need the number~ write me;)
Let me back up a bit~ if a person is only replacing the timing belt, then one doesn’t need to get the crankshaft gear off. But if the crankshaft seal is leaking? Like mine in the picture below? The the crankshaft gear needs to be removed in order to get to the crankshaft seal! When the crankshaft seal leaks~ it makes a mess~ like in the picture below!
My poor alternator! It was soaked in “gunk”! You get this stuff under your fingernails, it doesn’t come off! I took the alternator apart and cleaned it, then had it tested, and it’s good to go!
So, I started hearing stories about how difficult it is to break loose the crankshaft bolt. However, when I went to Tracker Ranch, Fritz showed me a few ways to keep the crankshaft pulley from turning in order to break loose the crankshaft bolt! His idea was pretty simple, but does require some fabrication. I love fabricating stuff! Anyway, he had an old harmonic balancer that he had removed the “balancer” portion of it leaving the metal shell which would bolt onto the crankshaft gear. So below, I had already welded on a 1/2″ drive socket, obviously I had to give up a socket to make my tool!:(
The socket alone will not be strong enough to take the stress, so I welded a metal strap on to give the support it needs! Notice I have my welding table setup (bought from Northern Tools), and my Systematics 175 amp mig welder close at hand to weld everything together. I love my Systematics mig welder!;) It’s an older machine, but I could weld a battleship together with it!
I know it looks crude here, but I can assure you that it will look very nice when I’m finished!
After sanding it down, ground some of the welds a bit, I sprayed the paint, put some Low Range Off Road decals, clear coat~ now I’m ready to put it to the test! Low Range has nothing to do with this fabricated tool~ I just needed some decals!;)
My new tool bolts back on to the crankshaft splined gear with 5 small bolts(which also used to hold the crankshaft pulley on). Once bolted up, then it takes a long 1/2″ breaker bar that fits in the square drive of the tool, then a 17mm deep socket on the crankshaft bolt.
Then pushing/pulling, the bolt broke loose! hallelujah! I was kind of worried! Not that I don’t trust my welding skills, it’s just the force necessary to break this bolt loose is tremendous!
Yeah, I know, not everyone is going to go this far to make a tool! I was “thinking” about making some of these, but I don’t have the harmonic balancers to dedicate to make this tool. Maybe I’ll see if Fritz has a couple that I can get from him to make a few!
Anyway, there will be a few blogs popping up from my little Tracker~ so stay tuned and don’t forget to subscribe to Classic Cars and Tools to see what I’m up to!;)
Your car enthusiast friend, dne’
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admin - Posted in 97 Geo Tracker Blog Posts
Jul, 11, 2013
8 Comments.
8 Responses so far.
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Wuao, great tool, just the fun of making it, the thrill of testing it, not to mention the solution it gives just by saving you the agravation of trying diferent useless methods for hours. Makes it worth the effort. Congrats. You may replace the decal for a Tracker Ranch one.
Thanks Sergio~ I guess I’ll have to find some graphics person to make a Tracker Ranch decal! When I’m finished with the Tool, I may just send it to him, he would use it frequently, whereas for me, hopefully it’s just a one time ordeal! Thank you for taking time to post!!! 😉 dne’
Great Tool & Photos … You might enjoy the following weblink … quite a bit of innovative, eclectic things on Tracker, and all-auto “mechanical info”. I discovered this site or online shop manuals when assisting a friend with his Tracker’s mechanical repair … :-))
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Suzuki/Samurai_Sidekick_Geo_Tracker_Vitara/
Best,
~ Den
Thank you Den! I’ll check it out! I need all the information I can get! Thanks for stopping in!! dne’ 😉
Hi Dne:
I have a 98 Tracker 16V 5 spd. with AC. I also need to replace my timing belt. My Haynes manual talks about disconnecing the AC lines and bleeding off the freon. Did you need to disconnect or disassemble your AC to complete the work you did?
Thanks
Brannen
HI Brannen! No you do not need to disconnect your ac lines, or should I say, you do not need to break the ac lines allowing refrigerant to escape. To get the radiator shroud out of the way, on the passenger side of the radiator, there are a couple of 10mm bolts to allow the ac line to be moved somewhat to allow the shroud to come out a bit easier, if you decide to take it out. While you’re in there, make sure your crankshaft seal and camshaft seal aren’t leaking. You may want to replace the crank/camshaft seals while you’re there; that does require removal of the crankshaft splined gear, and to break that crankshaft bolt~ that’s why I made that tool. ON the manual transmission, you don’t have to contend with automatic tranny lines at the radiator, so the radiator in a manual trans is not too bad just to remove and get it out of the way for more room. Overall, the timing belt/waterpump is a relatively “easy” job. If you’re timing cover is warped, rubbing on the harmonic balancer of which they’re know to warp, a new one may be purchased for about 38-40 bucks from Low Range Off road. I also purchase a new harmonic balancer from that company as well. If I can be of further help, please ask! I’m not an authority, but I’m getting pretty good! Otherwise, Suzuki-forums.com is a great site for us Tracker/sidekick owners! I’m on there, check it out! ; ) dne’
Can you answer a dumb sounding question? I just bought a 97 Geo Tracker Auto, 91,000 miles , power steering, 2 dr. left hand drive , no ac, no radio, no power windows, no back seat and have now removed the front left passenger seat.
The vehicle was owned by the City of Oakland CA and used as a meter maid car. Engine looked very clean when we bought it and I will be using it on my part time substitute rural letter carrier route on the Oregon coast (yes some hilly gravel roads as well as some hwy driving). We can not locate a battery in the engine compartment (no space left unfilled) but there was a battery in the back end cargo area which is connected along the floor then disappears under the front left passenger floor. Since it appears to be the only existing battery we have moved it under the front passenger dash to leave clear room for mail and packages.
My question is this the normal location in the rear cargo area for the battery?
It is leaking a minimal amount of clear clean oil near the rear left side of the engine. At least that is the location where it is accumulating on the driveway! Am I in for trouble with that leak?
Hi Wildduck! 91,ooo miles, kind of low milage for a ’97 Tracker;) The battery would be under the hood on the passenger side nearest the firewall. As for the oil leak, these engines are notorious for leaking oil from the distributor housing O-ring. One would have to pull the distributor, then pull off the distributor housing which is held on by 3 – 10mm bolts, clean it very well leaving the old O-ring in place, then sealing with a good silicone sealer, but can’t exclude other things, like valve cover, or even the rear main seal. Best to clean the engine very well then look very well for the leak, but probably the O-ring as mentioned. Mine was leaking horribly! I hope this helps!;)
dne’